Weekend Whipper: Climber Falls While Clipping

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Readers, please send your Weekend Whipper videos, information, and any lessons learned to Anthony Walsh, [email protected].

Oh how we hate to fall while clipping. Perched above the previous bolt, climbers reach a critical decision. Pull up an arm’s length of slack to clip? Or keep climbing until that bolt is level with your torso? The former may feel safer, but there’s more risk involved too: A fall will feel as if you’ve climbed well past the upper bolt, and then launched yourself into space.

Mike Miedlo had a few hours free before work and was projecting Caught In The Act at Farley Ledges, MA. The short, technical route was originally given the (typical of New England) sandbag of 5.10+, but modern consensus has settled in around 5.11.

Miedlo had made it through the route’s traversing crux sequence—good edges and long reaches—cleanly from the ground for his first time. His redpoint was within reach, but as he neared the penultimate bolt a thick pump settled in. Miedlo worked himself into what can only be described as a strenuous position, then pulled up plenty of rope. Perhaps unsurprisingly, his left hand failed and he’s off.

Kudos to his belayer for the excellent catch; she gives as much rope as he needs for the high clip, then quickly takes it all back once he’s airborne.

When asked what he would do differently next time, Miedlo writes: “A better stance is the next piece of the puzzle. There might be an opportunity to clip high from below (feet on a good ledge) or climb higher and try to find some better holds.…”

Whichever you choose, don’t drop the rope!

Happy Friday, and be safe out there this weekend.